New York-based company Knickerbocker has teamed up with Houston retailer Manready Mercantile for a riff on the former’s service chore coat. The coat collaboration, shown off in the jointly created “C’est la Vie!” editorial, is an authentic re-creation of the USMC N-3 Utility Fatigue coat worn by military personnel. Using shuttle-loomed herringbone cotton twill from Japan, the coats feature accouterments – including a laurel wreath, a single star, and tack buttons – that were used by the USMC to delineate good luck. After assembly, the coats were dipped in the shade of indigo embodied by vintage French chores. Produced in limited quantities, the coats are now available online and through select retailers.
“We started with inspiration from the adorned “French Blues” chore coat. For silhouette, we took Knickerbocker’s service chore coat, an item based loosely off that of the USMC N-3 Utility Fatigue coats. For authenticity sake we hit up our friends in Japan for yardage on their shuttle loomed, PFD (prepared for dye), herringbone cotton twill. A twill almost identical in comparison to that of the French & USMC coats. For the buttons we brought in the iconic laurel wreath, single star, tack buttons, which were prominently used throughout USMC wear as a symbol of good luck. Once everything is in, we move to assembly.
After finishing assembly, we took a trip to our local wash house, where we made a few lab dips to identify the perfect shade of indigo to match that of one of our vintage French chores. Needless to say, we really couldn’t be happier with the results. The coats are now available in limited quantities. ”
- Self is a 9 oz. Japanese herringbone cotton twill woven on a shuttle loom & washed down for a soft hand and vintage look
- Due to extensive washing the style fits a size smaller than our standard service chore coat
- Other authentic details include USMC single star, laurel wreath “good luck” tack buttons in a tin finish
- Left chest, waist and inside patch pockets reinforced by bartacked corners
- Left chest pocket has pen pocket
- Felled double needle chain stitched seams
- Tailored work fit
- Dry clean or wash and dry on low
- Back woven labels are produced on a 1950’s needle loom machine
- Placket identification label is individually stamped on a cotton & linen selvedge and numbered
- Made in New York City for work, leisure & sport